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Is the Vizsla right for you????




Vizslas are not for everyone. They have certain needs, like being part of the family, living in the home, not outside in a kennel. They have a very strong desire to please their people and be your shadow. Hence the nickname “Velcro Dog” They have a VERY high energy level and need to have daily exercise and not just a walk around the block. They need room to run, frolic and chase things that fly through the air, and they love to swim.

 If treated right, the Vizsla will be your life long companion, hunting partner, and VERY special friend. If treated incorrectly, you could end up with a very sad, and frightened animal, or on the other side, a very un-socialized aggressive dog.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s not just Vizslas that could turn out this way. It’s all breeds. I do not believe ANY dog should have to live outside without the proper “people interaction” There are too many people that get a dog, toss it in the backyard with a dog house and the only interaction with people it gets is when it’s feeding time.
 This life is NOT for a Vizsla or any other breed for that matter!

 Vizslas are great with kids, adults, cats and other dogs with proper introductions and supervision. Do keep in mind though; Vizsla puppies are just like any other puppy. They like to chew, run, tackle and can sometimes get a little rough with small children. They will “counter surf”, steal, take over your favorite chair and the bed, they are sneaky and best of all, they will fill your life with joy, unconditional love and shower you with kisses everyday of their life! 

 Vizslas are very intelligent, manipulative, affectionate, have wiggle butts and a personality all their own. I have yet to run across a “boring” Vizsla. Their tails can go from 0 to 100 in .03 seconds. The expressions they have and things they do can have you rolling on the floor with laughter all the time. When they are caught doing something they shouldn’t, they give you that “look” that makes you crazy because you know, you won’t be able to be mad at them!

 If you would like to add a Vizsla to your family, but feel going through the “puppy stage” would not be the best fit for your family situation, there are MANY Vizslas that could use your love, care and companionship. Please contact the Utah/Idaho Vizsla Rescue or your local Vizsla Rescue for more information. The people you will talk to at the Rescue are very informed on the breed. Some Vizslas need to be re-homed due to family changes. They have been treated well, but because of the family situation, can longer keep their friend/s. Others have been rescued due to neglect and/or abuse. All Vizslas brought into rescue are fostered and evaluated for their temperament. So the coordinators have a better idea of the perfect home situation for each animal that comes in. They will be able to help you find the perfect Vizsla that is right for your family.
If you want to train for hunting, please read up on the training manuals BEFORE you begin, talk to other Vizsla owners/trainers. Know your dog and his/her temperament. If training is done incorrectly, or to harsh, you could damage a great dog. All training techniques are not good for all breeds. Different breeds have different techniques they can endure. Please know your dog and train using the techniques that are best for him/her.

If you chose to have someone else train or help you train your dog for hunting, the most important thing is to find out if they have experience with training and with the Vizsla breed. You can not always use the same training techniques on a Vizsla that you would a German Shorthaired Pointer or another breed and vice versa. If you chose to send your dog for weeks or months training at the trainer’s facility, please be informed. Go check out the place, find out the techniques they will be using, how will your dog be housed, what will they be doing when not in training? Can you come by and watch/visit? In my opinion, the best training comes from the owner, but I understand that is not always possible, so you want to put your partner in the best hands as possible, so do the research.

 Most importantly, please read up on all the information you can find on Vizslas or any other breed you are thinking about inviting into your home. Make sure the breed you choose is right for your family. When you bring an animal into your family, it will be a lifetime commitment.
Please visit this site for many articles, relating to health, training and raising a Vizsla. This site has many tips and hints, along with some funny stories.
Here are some suggestions on Vizsla books:
 There are also many chat lists on Vizslas. I find the lists VERY informative, funny and interesting. If you are thinking of getting a Vizsla or already have one, you will find the folks on these lists are very helpful and friendly, so ask any question/s you may have.
Before inquiring about a Vizsla, DO YOUR HOMEWORK! Try to get together with Vizslas. Talk with the families.
Before talking with Breeders, please read Puppy Buyer Etiquette

AKC Vizsla Standard




AKC Vizsla Breed Standard copied from the AKC web site

Vizsla Breed Standard

Sporting Group

General Appearance
That of a medium-sized, short-coated, hunting dog of distinguished appearance and bearing. Robust but rather lightly built, the coat is an attractive shaded golden rust. Originating in Hungary, the Vizsla was bred to work in field, forest and water. Agile and energetic, this is a versatile dog of power, drive and endurancein the field yet a tractable and affectionate companion in the home. It is strongly emphasized that field conditioned coats, as well as brawny or sinewy muscular condition and honorable scars indicating a working and hunting dog are never to be penalized in this dog. The requisite instincts and abilities to maintaina "dual dog" are always to be fosteredand appreciated, neverdeprecated.

Lean and muscular. Skull moderately wide between the ears with a median line down the forehead. Stop between skull and foreface is moderate. Foreface or muzzle is of equal length or slightly shorter than skull when viewed in profile, should taper gradually from stop to tip of nose. Muzzle square and deep. It should not turn up as in a "dish" face nor should it turn down. Whiskers serve a functional purpose; their removal is permitted but not preferred. Nostrils slightly open. Nose self-colored. Any other color is faulty. A partially orcompletely black nose is a disqualification. Freckles due to aging or sun exposure are not to be faulted.Ears, thin, silky and proportionately long, with rounded-leather ends, set fairly low and hanging close to cheeks. Jaws are strong with well developed white teeth meeting in a scissors bite. Eyes medium in size and depth of setting, their surrounding tissue covering the whites. Color of the iris should blend with the color of the coat. Yellow or any other color is faulty. Prominent pop eyes are faulty. Lower eyelids should neither turn in nor out since bothconditions allow seeds and dust to irritate the eye.Lips cover the jaws completely but are neither loose nor pendulous.

Neck and Body
Neck strong, smooth and muscular, moderately long, arched and devoid of dewlap, broadening nicely into shoulders which are moderately laid back. This is mandatory to maintain balance with the moderately angulated hindquarters. Body is strong and well proportioned. Withers high. While the Vizsla may appear square, when measured from point of breastbone to point of buttocks and from the highest point over the shoulder blades to the ground, the Vizsla is slightly longer than tall. A proper proportion of leg length to body length is essential to the desired overall balance of the Vizsla. The Vizsla should not appear long and low or tall and leggy. Backline firm with a slight rise over a short and well muscled loin. The croup is gently rounded to the set on of the tail and is not steep, sunken or flat. When moving at a trot, a properly built Vizsla maintains asteady, level backline. Chest moderately broad and deep reaching down to the elbows. Ribs well-sprung and carried well back; underline exhibiting a slight tuck-up beneath the loin. Tail set just below the level of the croup, thicker at the root and docked one-third off. Ideally, it should reach to the back of the stifle joint and when moving it should be carried at or near the horizontal, notvertically or curled over the back, nor between the legs. A docked tail is preferred.

Shoulder blades proportionately long and wide sloping moderately back and fairly close at the top. Upper arm is about equal in length to the shoulder blade in order to allow for good extension. Forelegs straight and muscular with elbows close. Feetcat-like, round and compact with toes close. Nails brown and short. Pads thick and tough. The removal ofdewclaws, if any, on front and rear feet, is strongly recommended, in order to avoid injury when running in the field.

Hind legs have well developed thighs with moderately angulated stifles and hocks in balance with the moderately laid back shoulders. They must be straight as viewed from behind. Too much angulation at the hocks is as faulty as too little. The hocks are let down and parallel to each other.

Short, smooth, dense and close-lying, without woolly undercoat. A distinctly long coat is a disqualification.

Golden rust in varying shades. Lighter shadings over the sides of the neck and shoulders givingthe appearance of a "saddle" are common.Solid dark mahogany and pale yellow are faulty. White on the forechest, preferably as small as possible, and white on the toes are permissible. Solid white extending above the toes or white anywhere else on the dog except the forechest is a disqualification. When viewing the dog from the front, white markings on the forechest must be confined to an area from the top of the sternum to a point between the elbows when the dog is standing naturally. White extending on the shoulders or neck is a disqualification.White due to aging or scarring mustnot be faulted. The Vizsla is self-colored, with the color of the eyes, eye-rims, lips, nose, toenails and pads of feet blending with the color of the coat.

Far reaching, light footed, graceful and smooth. When moving at a fast trot, a properly built dog single tracks.

The ideal male is 22 to 24 inches at the highest point over the shoulder blades. The ideal female is 21 to 23 inches. Because the Vizsla is meant to be a medium-sized hunter, any dog measuring more than 1 ½ inches over or under these limits must be disqualified.

A natural hunter endowed with a good nose and above-average ability to take training. Lively, gentle-mannered, demonstrably affectionate and sensitive though fearless with a well developed protective instinct. Shyness, timidity or nervousness should be penalized.

The foregoing describes the ideal Vizsla. Any deviation from this ideal must be penalized to the extent of the deviation. Deviations that impact performance and function should be considered more serious than those that affect only appearance.

Partially or completely black nose.
Solid white extending above the toes or white anywhere else on the dog except the forechest.
White extending on the shoulders or neck.
A distinctly long coat.
Any male over 25 ½ inches, or under 20 ½ inches and any female over 24 ½ inches or under 19 ½ inches at the highest point over the shoulder blades

Approved January 13, 2009
Effective April 1, 2009

FCI Vizsla Standard




FCI-Standard N° 57 / 13.09.2000  / GB
(Rövidszörü Magyar Vizsla)
as copied from the FCI web site
TRANSLATION: Mrs. H. Gross-Richardson and
  Mrs. Ann Mitchell, ANKC Australia
  and Mrs. Elke Peper
ORIGIN:  Hungary.


UTILISATION: A versatile gun dog that must be able to work in the field, forest and water, having the following typical qualities: an excellent nose, firmness on the point, excellent retrieves and determination to remain on the scent even when swimming, which he manifestly enjoys. He copes with difficult terrain as well as extreme weather conditions.  As he is intended to be an efficient hunting dog, gun and game shyness,  unwillingness to point and retrieve, as well as a dislike of water are undesirable. Because of his easy going nature and his adaptability, he can easily be kept as a companion dog in the house.

CLASSIFICATION:  Group 7  Pointing Dogs.
  Section 1  Continental Pointing Dogs.
  With working trial (Field and Water Trial)

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY: The ancestors of the Hungarian Vizsla came into the Carpathian Basin with the nomadic Hungarian tribes. Written descriptions and graphic illustrations are found in documents of the 14th century already. From the 18th century, his importance as a hunting dog has been increasing steadily.
As early as the end of the 19th century, competitions for pointing dogs were organised in Hungary, in which Hungarian Vizslas (among others) participated with great success. In those days, other Gundog breeds most likely played an important part in the development of the breed.
The specific modern breeding started in 1920, as a result of which, the Short-Haired Hungarian Vizsla received recognition by the FCI in 1936.
GENERAL APPEARANCE : Medium sized, elegant gun dog of noble appearance with short russet gold coat. His rather light, dry, lean structure embodies the harmony of beauty and strength.

• The body length slightly exceeds the height at the withers.
• The depth of the brisket is slightly less than half the height at the withers.
• The muzzle is slightly shorter than half the length of the head.

BEHAVIOUR/TEMPERAMENT : Lively, friendly, evenly tempered, to be trained easily. His outstanding willingness to keep contact with his master while working is one of his essential qualities. He cannot bear rough treatment and must be neither aggressive nor shy.

HEAD :Dry, noble, well proportioned.

Skull : Moderately wide, slightly domed. A slightly pronounced groove runs from the moderately developed occiput towards the stop. The superciliary ridges are moderately developed.
Stop : Moderate.

Nose : Well developed and broad with nostrils as wide as possible. The colour of the nose harmonises in a dark shading with the coat colour.
Muzzle : Blunt, not pointed; with strong jaws, strongly muscled. The bridge of the nose is straight,
Lips : Tightly fitting, no pendulous flews.
Jaws/Teeth : Powerful jaws with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws ; with 42 healthy teeth according to the dentition formula.
Cheeks : Strong, well muscled.
Eyes : Slightly oval, of medium size. Well fitting eyelids. Intelligent and lively expression. The brown eye harmonising with the coat colour, as dark as possible preferred.
Leathers : Set on at medium height, a little backwards. Fine leathers hanging closely to the cheeks, ending in a rounded V shape. The length is about three quarters of the length of the head.

NECK : Of medium length, harmonising with the overall appearance. The nape very muscular and slightly arched. Tightly fitting skin at the throat.

Withers : Pronounced and muscular.
Back : Solid, strong, well muscled, taut and straight. The vertebral spines should be hidden by the muscles.
Loin : Short, broad, tight, muscular, straight or slightly arched. The portion from back to loin is well coupled.
Croup : Broad and of sufficient length, not cut off short. Sloping slightly to the tail. Well muscled.
Chest : Deep and broad with well developed, well muscled, moderately arched forechest; sternum extending as far back as possible. The sternum and the elbow should be at the same level. Ribs moderately arched. Last ribs carried well back.
Underline : Elegant, tight, arching line towards the rear, slightly tucked up.

TAIL : Set on slightly low, strong at the base, then tapering. In countries where tail docking is not prohibited by law, the tail may be shortened by one quarter to avoid hunting hazards.  If tail docking is prohibited, the tail reaches down to the hock joint and carried straight or slightly sabre like. On the move, it is raised up to the horizontal.  It is well covered by dense coat.


FOREQUARTERS : Viewed from the front, straight and parallel. Viewed from the side, legs are vertical and placed well under the body. Good bones, strongly muscled.
Shoulders : Long, sloping and flat, well attached shoulder blade.  Flexible. Strong, dry musculature. Well angulated  between shoulder blade and upper arm.
Upper arm : As long as possible. Well muscled.
Elbows  : Fitting close to the body, however not tied in, turning neither in nor out. Well angulated between upper arm and forearm.
Forearm : Long, straight, sufficiently muscled. Bone strong, but not coarse.
Pastern joint : Strong, tight.
Pastern : Short, only very slightly sloping.
Forefeet : Slightly oval, with well knit, sufficiently arched, strong toes. Strong brown nails. Tough, resistant, slate grey pads. The feet are parallel when standing or moving.
HINDQUARTERS : Viewed from behind, straight and parallel. Well angulated. Strong bone.
Upper thigh : Long and muscular. Good angulation between pelvis and upper thigh.
Stifle : Well angulated
Lower thigh : Long, well muscled and sinewy. Its length is almost equal to that of the upper thigh. Good angulation between lower thigh and metatarsus.
Hock joint : Strong, dry and sinewy, rather well let down.
Metatarsus : Vertical, short and dry.
Hind feet : Similar  to forefeet.

GAIT/MOVEMENT : The typical gait is an animated, light-footed trot, elegant and far reaching, with much drive and corresponding reach.  Not exhausting gallop when working in the field. The back is firm and the topline remains level. Good, upright carriage. Pacing undesirable.

SKIN Tightly fitting, without folds. The skin is well pigmented.

HAIR : Short and dense, should be coarse and hard at the touch. On the head and the leathers, it should be thinner, silkier and shorter. The hair underneath the tail should be slightly, but not noticeably, longer. It should cover all of the body ; the underside of the belly is a little lighter coated. No undercoat.

COLOUR : Various shades of russet gold and dark sandy gold (semmelgelb). The leathers may be a little darker, otherwise uniform in colour. Red, brownish or lightened colour is undesirable. A little white patch on the chest or at the throat, not more than 5 cm in diameter, as well as white markings on the toes are not considered faulty. The colour of the lips and the eyerims corresponds to the colour of the nose.

Dogs:  58 - 64 cm
Bitches: 54 - 60 cm

It is ineffective to increase the height at the withers. A medium size should be aimed at. Overall balance and symmetry are much more important than the mere measurable size.
FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportions to its degree.

• Distinct deviations from the characteristics of the breed.
• Strong deviation from the sexual characteristics.
• Atypical head.
• Spotted(butterfly) nose.
• Pendulous or dribbling flews.
• Under- or overshot mouth. Wry mouth, including all intermediate forms.
• One or more missing incisors and/or canine and/or premolars 2-4 and/or molars 1-2 ; more than two missing PM1 ; the M3 are disregarded. Not visible teeth are assessed as missing ones.  Supernumerary teeth not in line with the o-thers.
• Cleft palate, harelip.
• Light yellow eyes. Very loose eyelids; ectropion, entropion. Distichiasis (double row of eyelashes).
• Pronounced dewlap.
• Dewclaws.
• Very faulty movement.
• Atypical coat.
• Dark brown or pale yellow colour. Parti-coloured, not uniformly coloured. White chest patch larger than 5 cm.
• White feet.
• Lacking pigmentation either on the skin or on the lips and eyerims.
• Any type of weakness in temperament.
• Deviation of more than 2 cm from the above mentioned heights at withers.
NB:  Male animals must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.



Email: Judy Campbell
Utah  84020


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